"Awwwww....you killed it!" my host sister cried out, as I ripped off a piece of my guagua de pan, the bread doll I was eating in observance of the upcoming Dia de los Meurtos and Dia de los Difuntos. Also known as "Day of the Dead" and "Day of the Souls", Ecuadorians celebrate these Catholic holidays by making sweet-bread dolls, or "guaguas de pan" (another Quichua term), which they then place in decorative baskets and sometimes deliver to the graves of loved ones who have passed away. However, they are also a dessert at the end of a meal that commemorates the event. In my case, we were enjoying these tasty treats with "colada morada", a delicious, thick drink concocted from various berries, including strawberries, blueberries, naranjilla, babaco and pineapple. The name literally translates to "strained dark purple", which refers to the color of this sweet beverage. "I did not," I insisted, as I dipped my guagua de pan into the colada morado. "It wasn't alive anyway," I assured her. She giggled at me as I popped the bread into my mouth and made a funny face at her, "Mmmm!" I exclaimed.
It wasn't long before my guagua de pan was all gone, my supply of colada morado was greatly depleted, and my stomach was full. "What flavor did you get?" my host brother inquired, as I sampled some of his chocolate-filled bread. "Hmm....I don't know. Something with berries I think!" It was delectable. A real treat. Of course, the full-blown celebrations take place next week, and I'm hoping to get out of Quito, along with millions of other Ecuadorians to celebrate the November 1st and 2nd holidays. This weekend, we celebrated with my host family and some extended family, enjoying a long afternoon filled with a three-course meal and a lovely sobremesa.
I was pleased that I could follow the conversation much better than last week. Already, I feel less intimidated by traveling on my own, and was able to use my emerging Spanish skills to catch a cab and meet a new friend close to downtown Quito on Saturday. She's a student teacher, just like me, and also happens to be from the Midwest. Seeing as she's been in Quito for almost two months already, it was helpful to have her navigate the streets and explore along with me. Our first stop was at one of Quito's numerous parks, La Parque del Ejido.
On the weekends, El Ejido is filled with vendors and artwork of all kinds. I am stunned by the variety of artwork available--everything from jewelry, to sculptures made out of bike chains, to elaborate life-like paintings, to blankets woven out of llama hair, to puppeteers. When we heard a Michael Jackson song blaring from the western side of the park, Lianna and I had to investigate. It was a puppeteer, deftly maneuvering the strings of a clown-like puppet. The slightest tug on the strings caused the puppet to dance wildly, with moves like Michael Jackson himself, in perfect time to the music. After enjoying the Michael Jackson magic, Lianna and I meandered on, enjoying the beauty of the art, the colors, the smells, and the feel of the golden sunshine warming our heads. There was no rush, no appointments, no work, work, work. We journeyed over to the busy La Plaza Foch and enjoyed an unhurried hour and a half at a coffee shop, comparing teaching and traveling stories. After a crazy first week of school, it was the perfect blend of rest, culture, and adventure to last me until next weekend, when I plan on taking a bus to Ecuador's beautiful coast for the long weekend....
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